OK, Lagos isn’t my favourite hunting ground. I wouldn’t live in Lagos even if I got paid to do so. The town is too hyper for me, too quick, too crowded and still the best spot in Nigeria. Just like London, Lagos is one of those places where the inhabitants don’t want to live anywhere else. I know that feeling which makes my aversion of Lagos a contradiction. I haven’t inhaled Lagos air for about 8 years, its Abuja or PH for me anytime I come in. The custom officers there give less grief.
Anyway, out of no choice of mine, or should I say the special offers thrown in by KLM, I had to fly into Lagos during my spur-of-the-moment visit to Nigeria 2 weeks ago. I spent the night at some humble but nice hotel near the local airport called Skyline. It’s understated, has no signposts and is so close to both airports. I came in so late and didn’t want to put anyone’s life in danger. The next day I was on a plane to Aba via PH. I must say, Arik looks the business despite its alleged questionable ownership.
On my return from Aba/PH heading back to the UK, I spent my last 3 days in Lagos. I was nicely offered a number of roofs, a few places to stay, all in a place called Lekki. Most of my friends and their friends live there. Ensuring I didn’t get in the way, I opted for a B&B like hotel in Lekki called Aristo. It was conveniently a couple of doors from my cousin.
Lekki
Before this time, I had heard so much about Lekki, but hadn’t been to the place. There was always the odd picture, spam mail about new developments and a number of blogs, but what I knew about the place one could write on a postage stamp. I was also aware of the fact that most ‘relocatees’ (sic) seem to either own or rent a house there. My friend - who later on turned out to be my guide- rents a house there. He is also building something quite immense in an area called Lekki Phase 2 or did he say Nicon?
Taking me on an unplanned tour of Lekki a day later (we were actually out to see some friends); I was to some extent impressed with what I saw. I still had Aba images firmly stored in my brain, but I don’t think that had anything (or much) to do with it. It was fairly notable even if it looked like work in progress or a building site. I inquisitively asked how much a reasonable plot of land would cost, and my friend said something around the 50 mil mark. Its easy to note how the word million has been devalued in Naij.
And then I thought, hang on!
The roads are shite (excuse my Welsh), the generator had been on all thru my stay (i.e. no light), a little rainfall seemed to flood the place, folks seemed to be putting up some building that were so ugly they (the owners) should be thrown in jail (The house in front of the Aritso is an example, it has this huge eagle sculptor). There are some ugly houses, and I am not just talking about the blue roofs. It looked like you needed a car to get around; unless you were willing to jump an Okada (They seemed to have uniforms!). There was little supporting infrastructure/amenities, so why the 50mil plus for a piece of land. And then my mental calculator got to work. How much was it in sterling. About 200K, I kept my counsel. If there are ‘mugs’ willing to pay that much for it, so be it. My cousin told me she got her piece for close to =N=2m just about 8-9 years ago. So one could safely say that such price hikes cant be sustained.
One of the places my friend took me to was a modest shopping centre called The Palms. My friend in his unflattering way said it wasn’t any better or bigger than Selborne Walk in Walthamstow. Selborne Walk! OK he wasn’t too far off the mark, but I wouldn’t go that far. It seems a pretty neat and maybe small shopping mall. I expected to see top brands/names, but I was so delighted to see so many Nigerian branded shops with nice Window displays. That did it for me. It was a first for me.
My friend informed me that most of the people that visited the mall wanted to be noticed as being there. I guess that included us. Unlike other shopping malls were you see most folks with loads of shopping bags, majority of the people here had free hands. It was more like they were on an outing, visiting some tourist attraction rather than shopping – cameras in hand – everyone feeling cool, and giving the impression that they were not doing their first shopping mall thing. How hilarious! I told my guy that I did the same when Bluewater opened, only to be reminded that it was an unfair match. The Palms is supposedly the biggest shopping centre in Nigeria. It is a single floor shopping centre with 69 odd shops, and covers 10 acres of land. It has a total retail floor area of 20,000m² and parking space for about 1000 cars. Bluewater on the other hand has a couple of floors, is built on 240 acres of land, has more than 350 different shops, with a total retail floor area of 155,700 m² and parking spaces for 13,000 cars and 100 coaches. I wasn’t getting carried away, I was just happy to see what I will term a proper shopping centre in Nigeria.
After a bite at Nandos, we headed back to the car. The car park reemphasized that well known fact/myth, that there are cars in Nigeria that you wouldn’t find on the streets of London. OK, maybe it’s not true, but you always see the single or few top range cars in Nigeria - maybe not in the same numbers as one sees elsewhere.
We saw a few more spots during my stay, but it all happens away from Lekki. Lekki is an uncompleted dream (gated community?) that we shouldn’t get carried away with. It isn’t yet all that, but its heading that way, or is it.
Labels: Lekki, nigeria